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I hope nobody minds, but approximately three weeks ago, I started "series 2" of my Ghostbusters of London campaign, and while we don't have any recordings or comics or such, I thought nobody would mind if I shared a summary of their adventures so far. I'll start with some quick character descriptions and then give an overview of each case they've been involved in.submitted by MajorSteed to Ghostbusters_RPG
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For the context, both the original two films and the 2009 computer game are considered canonical. The Real Ghostbusters and Extreme Ghostbusters animated series exist as one of Dr Peter Venkman's many deals to increase the company's publicity. The adventures of the Ghostbusters of London team begin in mid-2016.
Things I wish I knew as a beginner photographer
- First thing of importance is to select a shooting mode on the camera. On top of the camera there's a knob with letters. M is for manual mode, A (or Av, "aperture priority") is for automatic shutter speed mode. I use A most of the time when taking event or lifestyle photos, and I use M when I have plenty of time to adjust the setting myself, such as landscapes and studio shots. In dark environments, I use M with auto ISO (see below). Using flash requires M as well.
- When in M mode, there are 3 parameters that determine how bright or dark the photo is. These parameters are shutter speed, aperture and ISO. They form a so called "exposure triangle". It's very important to learn how to balance these three parameters, because automatic exposure doesn't always apply to every situation you can find yourself in, and it doesn't know which parameters are a priority for you. Here's a quick chart explaining what each one does. https://blog.pond5.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/RIGHT_photography_shutter_speed_aperture_iso_che.jpg
To eliminate camera shake blur, you need to know your sensor size and the focal length of your lens. For full frame sensors, the rule is to have at least (1/focal length) shutter speed or faster. So if I'm shooting with a 50mm lens, I wouldn't go slower that 1/50. For other sensors, you will need to divide this number by your crop factor. So if you have an 1.6x crop sensor, that would be around 1/80. Here's a chart for all focal lengths. https://improvephotography.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/minimumShutterSpeedsForMaximumSharpnessInfographic-1.png
On the other hand, be careful about shutter speeds that are too quick when shooting with a flash. Flashes generally have a sync speed of 1/250 or so, and shooting with shorter shutter speeds will result in a partially dark image. Some flashes have a higher speed option (HSS), but it comes with a number of drawbacks when activated.
Aperture - that's the hole through which the light comes inside the camera. Wider aperture = brighter image. Be careful about the division sign again, because when the number is higher, the aperture is smaller. f/2.8 and wider are wide (or "fast") apertures, and f/8 and tighter are tight. The wider is the aperture, the more blurry the background and foreground will become, keeping the main subject shrap. This is actually desirable for many photographers who like them sweet bokeh balls (on e.g. portraits) and f/1.4 or f/1.2 lenses cost a lot.
However, with a wide aperture it's really easy to miss focus, and the subject can look a little blurry. So each lens has an aperture where it produces the sharpest subject - usually f/8 or so. Beyond f/11 and tighter, background and foreground will keep getting sharper, but the image overall will get blurrier and blurrier due to diffraction, so I only shoot this tight to darken the image when shooting at longer shutter speeds.
ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor. Higher values = more noise and worse color preservation. The optimal value is 100, but the noise doesn't come up until 1024 or so, depending on your camera. Going below 100 is possible, but can affect colors as well.
So let's say you're shooting a portrait at night at 1/200, f/5.6 and ISO 100 on a 50mm f2.8 lens. The picture comes out dark. The algorithm to get a correct exposure looks like this:
a. Set your aperture to be as open as possible = f/2.8
b. If this is not enough, increase your shutter speed to 1/80 (or 1/50 if you have steady hands or inbuilt stabilizer)
c. If this is not enough, raise ISO until the picture comes out correctly exposed.
Generally, it's preferable to raise ISO rather than push shutter speed over a limit. It's because the ISO noise is easier to get rid of during photo editing, it's doesn't look as off-putting as blur, and in the worst-case scenario you can slap a B&W filter on a photo and pretend it's a film grain. That's why at night I often set my camera to maximum aperture, longest feasible shutter speed and automatic ISO. The Av mode will produce blurry images in this environment.
- Which lens to use? Choosing the right lens is as important as the location or the light. Prime lenses have a fixed focal length, which means they can't "zoom", but they compensate for it with better sharpness, wider apertures, and lower price. Zoom lenses can zoom in and out, but they can still be classified as wide or telephoto depending on their range.
The kit lens, which often comes with the camera, can't really do any of these jobs well, so look to upgrade it - I would recommend a cheap 50mm f/1.8 lens for your first one. Before buying a lens, you can check out sample photos with this lens on https://pixelpeeper.com
- On the topic of focal length, be mindful of distortion. Shooting a portrait on anything over 35mm is going to result in weird facial shapes, because the nose will be much closer to the camera than the ears. Conversely, telephoto lenses will flatten the face like a pancake. You can see it here. https://i.pinimg.com/originals/23/f4/48/23f44824e2a4071a8408a0fed445d742.gif (Technically, it's not the focal length that matters here, but the distance to the subject)
- Your camera can shoot photos in either JPEG or RAW format. I highly recommend selecting RAW in the settings, because this format retains more information about light and colors in the file - it utilizes the dynamic range of your camera to the fullest. This means that during editing, you'll be able to brighten up the shadows, rescue the blown-out highlights, and even change the color temperature of the light as if it was a camera setting. The downside is that RAW files are larger, and they look less contrasty without editing to preserve as much information as possible. If you don't want to do any editing whatsoever, maybe JPEG is better.
- Shooting a group of people? Switch your camera to a burst mode and take 2-3 photos at once. This makes sure that if someone blinks, you can easily copy their open eyes from another photo.
- Shooting indoors can cause banding on your photo because of lights flickering with 50-60Hz frequency. The easy solution here it to buy a cheap flash that fits on top of your camera (a speedlight - pay attention to compatibility) and aim the flash up in the ceiling - the bright ceiling then bounces the light nicely over a large area.
- Inspiration! Visit subs https://www.reddit.com/ExposurePorn/ ,
Sean Tucker https://www.youtube.com/useseantuckermerge ,
Michael Sasser https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHFd_RQWDeJk9ydqhXaXT7Q ,
and join a community of photographers on Discord to critique your work, receive advice, and get better together (photography has one). The fastest way to get better is to find an image you really like, and try to recreate it yourself.
Unfortunately, I can't cover the whole photography 101 in one post, plus I specialize on glamour photography, as you can see here (NSFW) https://www.instagram.com/see.elegance, so I welcome anyone with a different experience to offer their take.