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The Sims™ 4: Outdoor Retreat $16.99 £16.99 €16.99 AU $25.45 $22.09 Spotlight
The Sims™ 4: Parenthood $16.99 £15.29 €16.99 AU $25.45 $22.09 Spotlight
The Sims™ 4: Realm of Magic $16.99 £16.99 €16.99 AU $25.45 $22.94 Spotlight
The Sims™ 4: Seasons $23.99 £20.99 €23.99 AU $35.97 $31.19 Spotlight
The Sims™ 4: Spa Day $16.99 £16.99 €16.99 AU $25.45 $22.09 Spotlight
The Sims™ 4: StrangerVille $16.99 £16.99 €16.99 AU $25.45 $22.09 Spotlight
The Sims™ 4: Vampires $16.99 £15.29 €16.99 AU $25.45 $22.09 Spotlight
The Surge 2 $12.49 £11.24 €12.49 AU $17.48 $16.74 Deal With Gold
The Surge 2: Public Enemy Weapon Pack $2.00 £1.60 €2.00 AU $3.11 $2.67 Deal With Gold
The Surge 2: Season Pass $4.49 £3.59 €4.49 AU $6.73 $5.99 Deal With Gold
Titan Quest: Atlantis $13.99 £12.59 €13.99 AU $19.56 $13.99 Spotlight
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Tom Clancy’s Ghost Recon® Breakpoint: Year 1 Pass $19.99 £16.49 €19.99 AU $29.97 $24.99 Spotlight
Tom Clancy's Rainbow Six Siege - Year 5 Pass $19.99 £15.99 €19.99 AU $29.96 $25.59 Spotlight
Trials® Rising - Expansion pass $7.49 £5.99 €7.49 AU $11.22 $9.99 Spotlight
Troll and I $5.99 £4.99 €5.99 AU $7.99 $7.99 Spotlight
Tropico 6: Spitter $5.99 £5.03 €5.99 AU $8.97 $7.67 Spotlight
Tropico 6: The Llama of Wall Street $5.99 £5.03 €5.99 AU $8.97 $7.67 Spotlight
Ultimate Pack $11.99 £11.47 €13.99 AU $20.98 $14.99 Spotlight
Vigor: ARMORY PACK $6.69 £5.62 €6.69 AU $10.01 $8.56 Spotlight
Vigor: OUTLANDER PACK $49.99 £41.74 €49.99 AU $74.97 $64.49 Spotlight
Vigor: STARTER PACK $6.69 £5.62 €6.69 AU $10.01 $8.56 Spotlight
Warface: Breakout: Season 1 Cosmetic Pack $5.99 £5.03 €5.99 AU $8.97 $7.67 Spotlight
Warface: Breakout: Year Pass $15.99 £13.39 €15.99 AU $23.96 $20.79 Spotlight
World of Tanks: SummerSlam: World of Tanks - Captured KV-1 $6.99 £5.87 €6.99 AU $10.47 $8.99 Spotlight
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World of Tanks: SummerSlam: World of Tanks - T-34-88 $9.99 £8.37 €9.99 AU $14.97 $12.99 Spotlight
World of Warships: Legends $31.99 £26.79 €31.99 AU $47.96 $41.59 Spotlight
Wreckfest: Season Pass $11.49 £9.62 €11.49 AU $17.22 $14.99 Spotlight
WWE 2K20: Accelerator $2.49 £1.99 €2.49 AU $3.72 $3.49 Spotlight
WWE 2K20: Backstage Pass $14.99 £12.37 €14.99 AU $14.99 $19.99 Spotlight
WWE 2K20: Bump in the Night $7.49 £5.99 €7.49 AU $11.22 $9.99 Spotlight
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XCOM® 2 Reinforcement Pack $9.99 £7.99 €9.99 AU $14.97 $10.99 Spotlight
XCOM® 2: Alien Hunters $4.99 £3.99 €4.99 AU $6.72 $4.99 Spotlight
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XCOM® 2: Resistance Warrior Pack $2.49 £1.99 €2.49 AU $3.32 $2.49 Spotlight
XCOM® 2: Shen's Last Gift $4.99 £3.99 €4.99 AU $6.72 $4.99 Spotlight
XCOM® 2: War of the Chosen $13.19 £11.54 €13.19 AU $18.13 $17.65 Spotlight

Xbox 360

submitted by freakroach to GreatXboxDeals

Build purchasing reference guide

(Cover pic)
This guide is meant to be a general overview of purchasing the main components in a computer setup. I apologize for any typos, this was all typed up from my phone.
This table contains general percentages for allocating your budget on each component of an average mid-tier build. Increasing the tier, you will increase the CPU, GPU, RAM, and storage percentages. Lowering the tier, you will decrease the others. The "Total1" column is for if you're only factoring in the PC itself. "Total2" is for if you're factoring in peripherals/accessories. These percentages account for a Total1 of $1000-$1200 USD, and a Total2 of $1900-$2100 USD.
Item Total1 Total2
GPU 30 17
GPU 20 12
Motherboard 15 10
PSU 10 5
Storage 10 5
Case 10 5
RAM 5 5
Monitor 18
Keyboard 5
Mouse 5
Headphones 5
Speakers 5
UPS 5

GPU

Stands for graphics processing unit. Also known as video card, graphics card, graphics accelerator, etc. It is the majority of your cost because it is the biggest determining factor in rendering and displaying what is on the screen. A gaming computer will need a high core count and clock speed for rendering scenes. A workstation computer will need high VRAM (video memory) to retain what is being rendered.
Low-tier GPUs can range from $150-$250 USD. Mid-tier GPUs will be $250-$500. High-tier GPUs can go all the way up to $2000 or more (workstation cards are significantly more). It is reccomendable to buy them secondhand.

CPU

Stands for central processing unit. It is what runs processes and various tasks or applications. A fast GPU will be meaningless if it has to wait for the CPU to catch up, but generally all current mid-tier CPUs will be capable of running any GPU to a reasonable degree. Core count, IPC (instructions per clock), clock speed, TDP and cache size are the main important factors. More cores allow for better multitasking, try to get at least 6. Hyperthreading or multithreading is a way of treating one physical core as two. An 8 core, 8 thread CPU is better than a 4 core, 8 thread CPU of similar quality. TDP is the amount of power the CPU will draw. A higher TDP means more heat. At a certain point, stock coolers will no longer suffice. When it comes to that, you can choose between air or water cooling. Air cooling is cheaper and has less parts to break, so it typically lasts much longer, and can be fixed by simply replacing the fans. Water cooling is much more effective, but takes up more space and the water eventually needs to be replaced. Water cooling can be a closed loop (referred to as AIO - all in one), or an open loop (referred to as custom loop). The finer details of water cooling is an entire topic of its own, more details about it here.
Low-tier CPUs can range from $100-$150 USD. Mid-tier CPUs will be $150-$300. High-tier CPUs go up to $3000 or more. It is reccomendable to buy them secondhand.

Motherboard

The main board that connects all components together. The socket MUST be the exact same as your CPU. Intel and AMD are not compatible, and even within the same brand, some generations use different sockets. The chipset also must be compatible, but they are slightly more lenient. Some older chipsets will need their BIOS updated to be compatible with newer chips. Ensure that your motherboard has all the ports/connectors you want, and that it will fit in the case you want. For enthusiast overclocking, mosfets, VRMs, chipsets, and cooling of those parts are very important. For standard use or light overclocking, it isn't of drastic importance.
Low-tier boards can range from $50-$100 USD. Mid-tier boards will be $100-$220. High-tier boards can go up to $1200 or more. Buying secondhand is reccomendable, but be careful for those who may have abused their boards with careless overclocks. They can still be functional but may be worn out.

PSU

Stands for power supply unit. Rule 1 of building a PC, never cheap out on a power supply. A bad PSU can at worst blow up in flames, or at best ruin the performance/lifespan of your other components. First and foremost, always get the proper wattage for your computer. Never go below, and always try to leave headroom. A PSU has an efficiency curve that starts to lose efficiency past 75%-80% of its maximum power draw. Very low power draws also have lower efficiency, so there's no need to buy a 1500w PSU for a 300w system. Lower efficiency means higher heat output, too. The main concerns aside from wattage are your connectors, the 80+ rating, and safety features. 80+ rating is the efficiency rating of the PSU. Go for a Bronze rating or better, and look up reviews to make sure it is a reputable brand.
Low-tier PSUs can range from $40-$80 USD. Mid-tier PSUs will be $80-$200. High-tier PSUs can go up to $600 or more. I would not reccomend buying them secondhand, as you have no idea how the previous owner was using them, and you don't want your PSU to be unreliable.

Storage

The devices that hold your data long-term, not to be confused with RAM, which only holds memory for an active task short-term. HDDs (hard disc drives) typically come in 3.5" and 2.5" sizes. Their speed is measured by their disc's rotational speed, typical speeds are 5400rpm and 7200rpm. The faster a disc spins, the faster it can read data, but better cache or controllers will affect the transfer speed as well. SSDs (solid state drives) are the non-mechanical, non-moving counterparts to HDDs. They are SIGNIFICANTLY faster, shock resistant, and silent. M.2 NVMe drives are slightly faster than regular SSDs, and more compact. Not all M.2 drives are NVMe, though! As of now SSDs are much pricier than HDDS. Do not buy an SSD without DRAM (cache) on it, they drop in performance drastically after a short run. SLC, MLC, TLC, etc are -- simply put -- how the cells are read. Higher forms like TLC and QLC can store more data, but the ability to read cells fails faster. Often, people will buy a small SSD for their boot drive, and a large HDD for storage, to get the best of both worlds. Make sure you consistently defrag HDDs and never defrag SSDs.
Storage pricing can be very misleading, because some very bad drives cost more than better drives. Expect to pay about $0.03 USD per gigabyte for a HDD, and about $0.14 per gigabyte for an SSD. Do not buy secondhand. You have no way of knowing how long the drive has been used or if it was taken care of.

Case

Picking a case comes down to preference of style. Just ensure that it will fit your GPU, motherboard, PSU, and CPU cooler. Make sure any front ports or drive bays you want are included. Look at where the cable management ports are, and watch videos of people building in it to see what implications or shortcomings it may have. Look up reviews of its airflow as well.
Low-tier cases can range from $30-$60 USD. Mid-tier cases will be $70-$180 USD. $200 and above is generally high-tier, but some crappy cases can be in the higher price range as well. Buying secondhand is reccomendable, but you may find vital parts missing.

RAM

Stands for random access memory. RAM (often called memory) is what holds the short-term data for active tasks being run. Having more RAM has a bigger impact than having faster RAM. A frequency speed of 2933MHz is standard for Intel, 3200MHz is standard for Ryzen. CAS latency also affects the speed, here's a helpful chart. Always check compatibility lists before buying RAM. Even if it works, you may not get the advertised performance if it isn't fully compatible. Sometimes it may work just fine and simply hasn't been verified yet, but that's a gamble. ALWAYS buy at least two sticks of RAM for dual-channel. Four sticks is somewhat less stable with Ryzen, especially the eariler generations. Motherboards have two configurations that also impact the memory configuration speed, but that comes down to nitpicking.
Low-tier RAM can range from $3-$4 USD per gigabyte. Mid-tier RAM can range from $4-$5 per gigabyte. High-tier RAM can range from $5 upward to $50 per gigabyte! Buying secondhand is reccomendable.

Monitor

A good monitor is vital to fulfilling the purpose of an enthusiast PC, regardless of price range. A small screen on a workstation, or a slow response time on a gaming pc, or a poor picture quality on an artist's pc make the entire point of it a waste. The main specs to look at are resolution, size, and panel type. The secondary main specs to look for are response time, refresh rate, brightness, and frame sync. Speakers in monitors are terrible, so you shouldn't pay too much worry about if your monitor comes with them. VESA mount option is a thing to check for as well, if you plan to get an aftermarket stand. For screen size and resolution, I did a short post about it a while ago. Try not to go over 32", or else you'll be craning your neck to see the sides unless you sit far away. 1920×1080p is a standard minimum today, 1440p is a sweet spot, and 4k is the standard premium option. The most common current panel types are TN, IPS, VA, and OLED. TN is very fast and has high contrast, but has poor viewing angles and color accuracy (referred to as gamut). You'll see TN with higher refresh rates and lower response times, it's a good choice for competitive gaming and is generally cheaper. IPS has much better colors and viewing angles, but is a bit slower. It is a better choice for artists, movies, cinematic games, things of that nature. Their main downside is the backlight bleed, contrast, and ghosting. VA panels are kind of an in-between of TN and IPS, they also suffer "smeary" blacks during movement. OLEDs are the premium option, they have brilliant colors, and don't suffer the problems of lighting zones, allowing for pure blacks. They come at a high cost, and older models are plagued with problems. Make sure you look at reviews before pulling the trigger on one. Response time is how quickly an image displays. Beyond 5ms starts to feel a bit sluggish on gaming, but some people don't mind it. Refresh rate is how many images are displayed in a second. 60Hz is the standard minimum, 120Hz and above is good. Brightness should be at least 250 cdm2 or 500 nits, higher is better. Frame sync is called GSync by Nvidia, which is only compatible with their cards, or freesync, which works with both AMD and Nvidia. Frame sync allows the gpu to put out frames in sync with your monitor, making things look much smoother. VSync is another setting in games that usually isn't great.
Low-tier monitors will be around $80-$120 USD. Mid-tier will be around $120-$220. High tier monitors can go easily above $1000-$2000. Buying secondhand is reccomendable, but be wary of screen burn in.

Keyboard

A good keyboard is important to prevent fatigue, and as the front and center piece of a setup, it naturally is the most eye candy. Mechanical keyboards are the go-to option for enthusiasts currently. Mechanical keyboards get the name from their mechanical key switches, which are greatly more durable than rubber dome or chiclet keys, and the keys can easily pop off to be cleaned or replaced. Even between brands, there are options for actuation force (how hard you have to press), clickiness (how loud it is), and actuation distance (how far you have to press it). Mechanical keyboards are the more expensive option, but you can find cheaper ones like Redragon. More info on mechanical switches here and here. The main aspects to look for aside from key type/brand are the keyboard's build material and the size. An aluminum body will be more rigid, but noisier. A plastic body is softer, quieter, and louder. There are different types of plastic for keys, most commonly ABS or PBT. Size is in reference to if it has a numpad on the side, function keys up top, or spacing between sections of keys. Each category is reffered to as a percentage. 60% or tenkeyless is the most common for small form factor, it is just without a numpad or function keys. Mechanical keyboards have many more finer aspects to them, and can be a deep rabbithole like audiophile products. Try not to get carried away! Aside from mechanical keyboards, you will find
Low-tier mechanical keyboards can range from $20-$60 USD. Mid-tier keyboards can be between $60-$160. High-tier keyboards can be anywhere up to the thousands sometimes, but generally they will fall around $200-$400. Buying secondhand is reccomendable, though you may need to clean them.

Mouse

Things to look for in a mouse are weight, size, sensor type, connection type, and battery (if wireless). The lower the weight is, the easier it is to move and the less strain you will have on your wrist. A decent amount of weight is desirable, though. Size will be determined by your grip type. Sensor types will affect responsiveness and what surfaces it will work best on. A higher polling rate means it scans for movement more often and is smoother, but past a certain point it's somewhat a gimmick. More detailed info about sensors here. Connection type mainly boils down to wired or wireless. Wired mice never have to be recharged and can be lighter, but suffer from cable drag. This can be mostly circumvented by using a mouse bungee, which holds the cable for you. A wireless mouse is free of cable drag and makes the desk look cleaner, but is weighed down by a battery and has to be recharged or have the batteries replaced. Batteries can be either rechargable built-in lithium batteries or the simple AA or AAA batteries you find in remotes. A built-in lithium battery will make life easier in that you can just plug in the mouse for recharging and use it like a wired mouse, but eventually lithium batteries lose their ability to hold a charge. You can just keep using it as a wired mouse at that point, but that won't happen for a very long time, at least 3 or 5 years. Switch types (the clicks) can be a big impact as well, but most good mice will have good switches already.
Low-tier mice will be $20-$40 USD. Mid-tier mice will range from $40-$60, and high-tier mice can be up to about $200. It is reccomendable to buy them secondhand, but they aren't relatively expensive, so you may as well buy new.

Headphones

Headphones have a massive set of important aspects to look at, audiophile equipment is very easy to get carried away in. The simplest take on how accurate the headphones are is the frequency response curve of the drivers (the speakers inside). There are tons of other important specs, but the list is too big for this guide. Your main concerns aside from audio fidelity should be enclosure type (open or closed-back), weight, clamping force, build quality, connection type, and the microphone. Open back headphones allow for better breathing and sound stage (how large or wide and clear the audio is), they give a more natural sound. Closed-back headphones isolate noise, both in and out. You won't be hearing any noise around you and people nearby won't hear what you're listening to as easily. Weight and clamping force play part in how comfortable the headphones are to wear, a heavy clamping force will ensure they don't fall off, but can give you a headache. A light clamping force will make the headphones less of a pain to wear, but can more easily slip off. Many headphones have adjustable clamping force. Build quality comes down to how cheap they feel, how comfortable the pads sit on your ears, and how durable they are. This is another broad topic I won't be able to fit in this post. Connection type falls into wired, bluetooth, or 2.4GHz wireless. Wired will have the typical advantage of no recharging and lowered weight due to no battery. Bluetooth is a cheap option, but it has a very small bandwidth and the audio quality won't be as clean, especially if you plan to also have a microphone on it. 2.4GHz is the better wireless option as it is considered lag-free, longer distance, and has more bandwidth than bluetooth. The microphone is a something you will have to listen to reviews for, to see how it sounds. Poor microphones can sound muddy, scratchy, tinny, or polluted with background noise. Some people prefer to have a separate standalone microphone on a stand, which will sound much better. When you step into the more premium headphones, you will also want to pick up an external amp and dac. The fine details of that will also have to be left out of this post due to the vast semantics of it all. If your main purpose for the PC is a media platform, you should also look into planar magnetic headphones! They are top-notch, but come with a high price tag.
Low-tier headphones will be anywhere from $10-$40 USD. Mid-tier headphones can be from $60-$120. High-tier headphones can easily into the thousands. Buying secondhand is reccomendable.

UPS

Stands for uninterruptable power supply. It is vital to protecting your equipment, especially if your area is prone to surges or brownouts. It maintains a steady and clean supply of power for your equipment, and a better UPS will keep your equipment running for a bit in the event of power outages, giving you time to save and properly shut down. There are a lot of semantics that go into picking the right UPS, but APC has made a good summary of what to look at here. Make sure you account for a bit more than how much power you're actually going to use.
UPS pricing depends on the size and features you select, there isn't a good price range I can say. Don't buy these secondhand, they could have been abused and you don't want an unreliable power source, just like PSUs.
submitted by iNonEntity to buildapc

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